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  • Caring for Your Skin in Your 20s and 30s

    Can you influence how your skin ages? Did you know that genetics, accounting for 40% of your skin's aging, could either be comforting or concerning? But fret not, as you have control over the remaining 60%. Here's how skin ages: 40% Genetics 30% Skin Care 30% Lifestyle These factors work hand in hand, offering numerous ways to help your skin age gracefully. And here's a crucial reminder: the sun plays a significant role in damaging your skin or accelerating aging issues such as crinkly skin, dark spots, and texture changes. Sun damage accumulates over time, with just 10 minutes of exposure daily potentially causing significant issues. Despite recommendations for 15 minutes of daily unprotected sun exposure for Vitamin D, opting for a quality supplement is a safer choice. Remember, your lips, eyes, and hands also require sun protection. What happens to your skin in your 20s and 30s? In your 20s, your skin undergoes minimal changes. It remains soft, well-hydrated, shedding dead cells every 3 to 4 weeks, maintaining a fresh appearance. However, you may notice a gradual decrease in water retention capability, as hyaluronic acid begins to deplete due to factors like UV rays and pollution. Consequently, your skin may feel drier, less supple, and lose its radiance. While collagen loss initiates, it hasn't become evident yet. Hence, protection is vital during your 20s. Moving into your 30s, minor changes become noticeable, such as expression lines around the eyes and forehead, and dark spots from UV damage. Your skin may also become drier and more sensitive to temperature changes. However, this is the time for action. As you begin to notice these changes, it's crucial to switch to a more hydrating cleanser, incorporate ample moisture, and add a treatment product at night. Protection and prevention become paramount. Thoughts on Prejuvenation Care: Your skincare routine in your 20s and 30s significantly influences your skin's aging process. While injectables and advanced treatments like Botox or fillers can help correct aging issues, they aren't necessary for prevention. Adopting good lifestyle and skincare habits is key. Starting injectables at a young age is costly and lacks a good history, with potential long-term effects unknown. Skin Care Strategies for your 20s - Protect & Maintain: Establish a gentle yet effective cleansing routine, avoiding harsh ingredients. Apply sunscreen daily, ideally starting in your teens, with SPF 30. Incorporate an eye cream from age 25. Include Vitamin C for moisture, antioxidant protection, and collagen stimulation. Use a nighttime moisturizer tailored to your skin type. Schedule facials seasonally to hydrate and treat your skin. Consider micro-dermabrasion for a refreshing and brightening boost. These are basic recommendations. If you have specific concerns such as acne, break our prone skin or rosacea specific treatment plans should be followed. Skin Care Strategies for your 30s - Protect & Prevent: Build on the strategy for your 20s by adding a treatment skin care product at night. Doesn’t have to be a retinol, but could be a good hydrating peptide cream that starts to work on stimulating collagen & elastin so the loss is reduced and good moisture levels maintained. Ingredients that build collagen include cooper peptides and neoderlym. Professional treatments 4 times a year. Select ones that are hydrating and can stimulate collagen & Elastin such as chemical peels, micro needling, or micro-current. And polish skin with Micro-dermabrasion or dermaplaning for fleshing and brightening. A note about your eyes! Remember, the skin around your eyes ages faster, necessitating a dedicated eye cream. While Botox may seem tempting, long-term use can pose risks, making a good eye cream a safer option. Be cautious with false eyelashes or extensions, as the glue can damage delicate skin and even cause permanent eyelash loss. Instead, opt for eyelash growth products like Latisse or RapidLash. General Lifestyle Tips: As noted above, lifestyle can have a significant affect on how your skin ages. Good lifestyle habits that impact your skin include: Prioritize sufficient sleep for optimal skin repair. Regular exercise improves circulation, enhancing skin radiance. Opt for a balanced diet, avoiding processed foods and excessive sugar, which can cause glycation and alter skin texture. Skin Care Tips: Establish consistent skincare habits with proven products. Never sleep with makeup on, as it can accelerate aging and cause breakouts. Combine injectables with a reliable skincare routine for a healthy, beautiful appearance. Choose skincare products wisely, opting for medical-grade options for optimal results. Understand the difference between drug store, department store, Facebook, Sephora, Ulta, and medical-grade products. They can all be expensive so invest wisely. Avoid overusing potent ingredients like retinol or alpha hydroxy acids, as they can irritate the outer layer or protective layer of your skin. As your skin changes with the seasons and over the years, adjust your skincare routine accordingly. Regularly reevaluate your regimen to accommodate hormonal changes and maintain skin health. At SkinTrust, our "Ask the Esthetician" service ensures personalized care tailored to your skin's needs.

  • Skin and Skincare Through the Ages

    Jill joined PHTV Channel 4 of Palos Heights to discuss skin through the ages. Tune in to hear Jill share her story - how and why she made skin care her passion and career. Learn about why skin ages and what you can do about it.

  • Age-Defying Skincare: Why Does Skin Age?

    Why does skin age? And how can you best care for your skin through the ages? We begin aging from the moment we enter this world. It's an inevitable part of life. However, as we grow older, it's essential to maintain a positive self-image both internally and externally. While Baby Boomers lead the charge, younger generations also have piqued interest in combating the visible signs of aging that express on our faces. Remember, it's not all about vanity but about nurturing self-esteem and practicing good self-care. But how do you navigate the abundance of options available? There's so much to consider! Boy, what a change from when I grew up (read my story). Since becoming an esthetician 13 years ago, I've studied the industry, advocating for a sensible approach to skincare. It all starts with grasping the following fundamental facts. Skin Ages Due to: 40% Genetics 30% Lifestyle 30% Skin Care (or lack thereof) Aging brings forth various changes to our skin, affecting its appearance, texture, and functionality. There are two categories of aging to consider: 1. Intrinsic Aging - what is happening inside you: Genetics Hormones Metabolism 2. Extrinsic Aging - choices you make that influence your aging process: UV radiation Lifestyle choices Environmental factors Facial expressions Skincare habits Collagen and elastic fiber changes Hydration and moisture levels Cellular changes A healthy lifestyle, proper skincare, and sun protection can minimize the effects of aging. So where do you begin? Genetics. Start by taking a look at your parents. You likely inherited facial skin and features from them, both favorable and unfavorable. Identifying your genetic predispositions will empower you to accentuate the good and improve the not-so-good. Next, evaluate your lifestyle. Consider factors that can hinder or help how your skin ages: Sun Exposure Smoking Stress Exercise Alcohol consumption Diet Sleep Pollution Menopause You know the big one on this list - sun exposure! Sun exposure, in particular, warrants attention as it can lead to dark spots and hasten collagen and elastin loss. Research indicates that dark spots more visibly age you than wrinkles. In the normal aging process, here is what happens to your collagen and elastin: Starting at 18, you lose 1% each year. By the time you’re in your mid-30s, the loss doubles to 2%, By the time you’re in your 50s, the loss again doubles to 4% each year. Then, you reach a “tipping point”, when visible damage is obvious (especially if you have not cared for your skin). This loss typically progresses with age but is accelerated by external factors. Sun exposure will accelerate the rate of loss well beyond the percentages outlined above. And that’s just the effect of the sun! Add in other negative lifestyle influences like smoking, lack of exercise, poor diet, too much wine, not enough sleep, pollution, and then the inevitable arrival of menopause. You get it! It all adds up to the perfect storm on your skin. But all is not bleak! It's essential to cultivate healthy lifestyle habits, even if you can't adopt them all. Start with a few: Wear sunscreen with blue light protection (Circadia has a new one - how can we put that on the website). Reduce processed foods and sugar from your diet. Try to exercise a couple of times a week. Exercise will help you sleep better. If possible, don’t smoke. Good lifestyle choices will compound. For example, exercise can lead to better sleep (this is when your skin repairs itself), and better sleep helps control food carvings. Over time, good habits make a lasting difference. Here are some of the common ways in which the skin changes with age: Wrinkles and fine lines Loss of Elasticity Thinning of skin Dryness and dehydration Uneven skin tone and dark spots Decreased blood circulation Slower cell turnover Decreased oil production Loss of facial fat Reduced collagen production Impact of gravity Let's talk about caring for your skin. Let me start by saying - it is never too late. And if you start earlier, it’s much better. Remember, caring for your skin makes up 30% of how your skin will age. While nobody wants a 100-step regimen, effective products and consistency are key. You can establish a skincare routine tailored to your needs that takes less than 5 minutes in the morning and night. A sensible plan for your skin is establishing a regimen based on understanding and assessing how your skin is aging, how you have cared for your skin, and your lifestyle choices.  Then add the right ingredients to guide your skin through the aging process and understand the right treatments for your skin. There is so much available in this industry that it can be daunting to know what to do. Using an esthetician can guide you through this process and we specialize in this with Ask the Esthetician at SkinTrust. Stay tuned! In upcoming months, I will share skin care tips for each decade, so you can care for your skin through the ages. Caring for Your Skin in Your 20s and 30s

  • Unveiling 2024 Skincare Trends

    I love working in the skincare industry because there are always breakthrough innovations and fresh concepts on the horizon. 2023 brought new ingredients and tech advancements, and 2024 is set to exceed expectations, focusing on enhancing your natural beauty features. Here are some highlights of the trends to look out for. “No Needle” Plumping While Botox and fillers remain popular choices, a rising trend in 2024 focuses on achieving a plumping effect without the need for needles. The plumping trend has been gaining traction, sparked by numerous celebrities opting for a more natural aesthetic, showcasing their beauty with minimal makeup and radiant skin. Embracing one's natural features is becoming a priority, with individuals seeking skincare solutions that promote hydration and radiance. Many skincare brands are providing products that have a “no fill” plumping effect. At SkinTrust, we perform Intraceutical’s Rejuvenate and Intraceutical’s Opulence treatments, tailored for both face and necks, and our Hyaluronic Layering Atoxolene Eye treatment. Our treatments infuse hyaluronic acid, essential vitamins, and botanical extracts, delivering a non-invasive plumping effect for your skin. Trusted by red carpet stars, these treatments provide that coveted red carpet look, enhancing your natural beauty without the use of injections. Cosmetic Needling Cosmetic needling, particularly with rollers, is effective in stimulating cell turnover and greatly improving product penetration—achieving up to 100% greater penetration. However, please take caution, especially when attempting this at home. Opt for cosmetic needles with a length of only .3mm, as opposed to the .5mm version meant for professional use. Beware of deeper needles available on platforms like Amazon, as they can damage your skin. Remember, in skincare, 'more' isn't always 'better.' The .3mm needle provides micro-channeling in the epidermis within 3 to 5 minutes of use. For optimal results, incorporate it into your routine after cleansing and before applying a serum. If using a retinoid product, proceed slowly, as it can penetrate deeper and lead to significant irritation. Platelet-Rich Fibrin (PRF) - Natural Skin Rejuvenation Embrace the natural skin rejuvenation wave with Platelet-Rich Fibrin (PRF), the next generation of Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) treatments. Both PRP and PRF harness the power of your plasma to rejuvenate your skin, promoting a refreshed appearance and stimulating collagen production. As a top-tier treatment, whether administered through injections or in combination with micro-needling, PRF naturally kickstarts your body's processes to slow the effects of aging. This method is a stellar option, not just as a filler but as a collagen stimulator in between filler sessions. PRF, being the next-gen solution, boasts a higher concentration of platelets than PRP, ensuring longer-lasting growth factors for optimal stimulation. Book your next PRF treatment at SkinTrust. Potent Products Embrace the 'less is more' mantra as skincare brands shift towards more potent products in 2024. The trend is all about high concentrations of active ingredients that deliver results. Consumers are leaning towards using fewer products that still deliver results. When it comes to potency, medical-grade skincare products stand out—no exceptions! Fast Facials No one ever seems to have enough time. Some time-constrained consumers prioritize maintenance over luxury or corrective skincare treatments. While these may not offer the same transformative results, they serve as quick pick-me-ups, ideal for those conscious of both time and budget. Express or mini treatments, tailored to address specific concerns, can still provide significant benefits for your skin. Explore our curated list of Express Facials at SkinTrust and treat yourself to a convenient Holiday Pick-Me-Up. Mushroom Boom Experience the Mushroom Boom in skincare like never before in 2024. While the magic of mushrooms debuted in the spa industry in 2018 during the micro-dosing wellness trend, their roots in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) go back centuries. Consider this trend a revitalization of an already incredible ingredient. Mushrooms boast versatile benefits in skincare, including collagen production boost, antioxidant protection, skin brightening, hydration, anti-inflammatory properties, and more. Watch for the rise of mushrooms as a skincare ingredient in 2024, delivering a natural and effective touch to your skincare routine. Skin Care Hybrids The au-natural makeup trend, showcased by many celebrities this year, has inspired consumers to shift away from traditional makeup. A desire to let natural skin shine and use makeup as an enhancer led to the creation of makeup-skincare hybrids. Drunk Elephant takes the lead with their potent liquid bronzer and blush/skincare drops. Jane Iredale has transformed their liquid foundation into an ultra-hydrating tinted serum featuring Hyaluronic Acid, effectively plumping, soothing, minimizing fine lines, and achieving even skin tone with sheer coverage for a youthful look all day long. Jane Iredale's HydroPure Tinted Serum is available at SkinTrust. Reach out for more information. Droplette Device Join in the plumping and enhanced product absorption trend with the innovative Droplette device. This cutting-edge tool combines smart technology with specialized serums to create a potent micro-mist, maximizing the delivery of powerful ingredients to the skin. Explore the future of skincare with Droplette for an advanced and effective way to elevate your skincare routine in 2024. If you have any questions about any of the products and trends we shared, please reach out!

  • What Are Peptides and What Are the Anti-Aging Benefits?

    Peptides are one of the most talked about ingredients in anti-aging skincare. When applied to your skin, they demonstrate remarkable benefits: revitalization, strengthening and more resilience. Peptides are not the complete answer to slowing aging, but rather a great asset to add to your skin care regimen. What are Peptides in Skin Care? Peptides are short or long chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins such as elastin, collagen, and keratin. These proteins are the foundation of your skin and are responsible for its texture, strength, and resilience. Peptides have a myriad of uses in the body, from being the building blocks for enzymes, hormones, and an energy source. Without peptides, skin is less intact, which can lead to loss of firmness, the appearance of wrinkles, a change in texture, and less bounce. Scientific research has proven that peptides can support your skin on multiple levels, including firming, soothing, and hydrating. Some peptides have demonstrated a remarkable skin-soothing effect, while others can improve the appearance of wrinkles and loss of firmness. Peptides can even help soften the look of expression lines. In general, without these proteins, you will see wrinkles, brittle nails, and dry hair that is prone to breakage. How Do Peptides Work? If peptides are in our bodies, why do we need more? Experts report that we lose 1% of our remaining collagen per year after age 30. Our skin’s natural communication channels also slow down over time. Just putting more peptides in your skin doesn’t result in increased peptides. Instead, when you use peptides your body sees them and signals that you need to heal. If your skin is aging prematurely, those peptides might signal your skin to boost its production of collagen and even hyaluronic acid, plumping your skin and restoring a healthy barrier. Simply put, peptides stimulate cells to produce proteins. Peptides can penetrate the outer layer of the skin so instead of sitting on top of the skin, they sink in more deeply. You can think of them as messengers to the other cells. Benefits of Peptides Peptides in skincare products can offer a multitude of benefits including: Improved skin barrier. The skin barrier is the body’s line of defense against bacteria, ultraviolet rays, pollution, and other toxins. The skin barrier can be damaged from over-exfoliation, exposure to cigarette smoke, other pollution, or even poor sleep. Peptides help build a stronger barrier. Helps to smooth fine lines & wrinkles Increases elasticity or firmness Helps to reduce skin redness, irritation, and inflammation while repairing the skin Reduces breakouts (some peptides are antimicrobial and kill bacteria that cause breakouts) Types of Peptides There are hundreds of types of peptides. But, some peptides are more efficacious for the skin than others. When applied topically, peptides act as little messengers, triggering skin cells to perform specific functions such as building collagen and elastin, encouraging skin to look and act younger. Here are groups of peptides that work well in skin care: Signal (Communicating) Peptides The most common peptides in skin care include the pentapeptides. These are known to stimulate the production of collagen, elastin, and other structure proteins that make skin appear firmer and fuller. They help generate fibroblasts to increase the production of collagen while decreasing the breakdown of collagen. The most popular signal peptides are: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide (also known as Matrixyl) - This peptide gives you the benefits of retinol without the irritation. Its regenerative properties include stimulating collagen, increasing skin thickness, and strengthening the epidermal/dermal junction to provide a smoother complexion. Palmitoyl Tri-pepetide 38 or Matrixyl Synthe-6 - This peptide is the second generation of Matrixyl with a similar effect but more advanced properties. Acetyl Octapeptide -3 or SNAP 8 - This peptide reduces wrinkle depth caused by contraction muscles used in facial expressions. TGF Beta 1 - This peptide is used in skin care products to stimulate collagen and elastin production which speeds up wound healing. It has superior anti-inflammatory properties. Neurotransmitter Peptides This group of proteins slow down muscle contractions, which can create fine lines over time. The most well-known peptide in this group is: Argiriliene - Acetyl Hexapeptide 3 - This peptide is known for its ability to slow down muscle contractions over time. It is often recommended as an adjunct product to those receiving Botox as a Botox extender. It can also relax your facial muscles, but not at the same level as Botox. Carrier Peptides These peptides stabilize and deliver trace elements like copper and magnesium to the skin. Copper has been an especially popular ingredient in recent years, celebrated for its ability to improve collagen production, thereby firming up the skin and enhancing elasticity. It is necessary for wound healing and enzymatic processes. Peptides in this group include: Palmitoyl Tetra Peptide or Rigin - This peptide mimics DHEA and controls the production of chemical messengers that cause inflammation. Copper Peptides - Stimulate collagen & breaks down free radicals Enzyme-Inhibitor Peptides These peptides work by putting the brakes on the body’s natural deterioration of collagen. Peptides derived from rice proteins retain more collagen, while certain soy-derived peptides can help prevent pigmentation. Peptides in Skin Care Facials and Products Peptides stimulate repair, enhance collagen production without irritation (sometimes used as an alternative to retinol if you experienced sustained irritation), and preserve barrier functioning. While it’s clear that peptides are special, they are not enough to transform your skin as an isolated ingredient. Peptides work well in tandem with vitamin C, niacinamide, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid. A formulation with just a single peptide is not the most effective. Peptides are best if formulated in a “cocktail” of various peptides and a base of hyaluronic acid. But, a peptide mixed with Alpha Hydroxy Acid can make the protein less efficient. Look at the product’s formulation for the stability of its ingredients, and its ability to penetrate the skin barrier. When adding a peptide product to your regimen, opt for one that stays on your skin like a serum or moisturizer. There is no lasting benefit if you use a peptide cleanser that you rinse off. Have a skincare professional help you select the right peptide formulation. There are also skin care facial treatments that utilize peptides to firm and build collagen. At SkinTrust, the Beyond Botox Facial treatment utilizes the latest peptide technology with antioxidants, stem cells, and botanicals to leave your skin feeling lifted, and firmer with a more youthful appearance. Limitations of Peptides Peptides are an important part of your anti-aging skin care regimen. Even with the peptides currently available, research is still evolving on peptides. Be realistic with your expectations. Despite claims, peptides cannot noticeably plump lips. They do not work just like cosmetic procedures nor eliminate dark circles or puffy eyes. And they do not give you the same result as Botox. Claims otherwise are not supported by published, peer-reviewed research. There are many different types of peptides, so have a skin care professional help you select the right product and formulation for your skin care concerns. When reviewing products with peptides, be aware that the word “peptide” can sometimes be used as a marketing term. Use caution when you see this as it may require further investigation. Peptides in Summary Peptides are an essential ingredient in the fight against aging. Peptides should be part of your everyday skincare arsenal, as the need for cells to behave as healthy young cells requires daily attention. But remember to use skin care products with a cocktail of beneficial ingredients, as well as daily sun protection. This is the best thing you can do for the health and appearance of your skin.

  • Top 5 Ingredients That Slow Down Aging

    Slowing down aging of the skin requires a comprehensive approach to skincare, including the use of effective ingredients. You want to maintain your youthful glow, and you’re willing to spend time and money to help delay premature signs of aging. And yet with so many products on the market, it can be difficult to know which ones will slow the effects of time on your face and which ones won’t.Next time you’re shopping for skin-care essentials,look for these five top skincare ingredients known for their anti-aging properties: Retinoids (Retinol): Retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A and are considered one of the most potent anti-aging ingredients. They work by stimulating collagen production, promoting cell turnover, and reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sunspots. Regular use of retinoids can improve skin texture and firmness, but it may take time. It may take several weeks or months to see the results. Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from free radical damage caused by UV radiation and environmental pollutants. I recommend layering Vitamin C under your sunscreen to enhance the effects of the sun screen. It also plays a crucial role in collagen production, which contributes to improved skin elasticity and brightness. Vitamin C can help fade dark spots, even out skin tone, and give the skin a youthful glow. When choosing a Vitamin C product for your skincare routine, consider the following types of Vitamin C that are known to be effective: L-Ascorbic Acid Ascorbyl Palmitate Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate One thing to remember when purchasing Vitamin C is that it is an unstable ingredient, which can lose it potency quickly if not formulated correctly. Unstable or Vitamin C’s exposed to high temperatures will oxidize and lose its effectiveness. Peptides: Peptides are short chains of amino acids that signal the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, which are essential proteins for maintaining skin structure and firmness. Regular use of peptides can lead to smoother, plumper, and more youthful-looking skin. When it comes to preventing aging, certain peptides have demonstrated particular effectiveness: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) Copper Peptides Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4) Snap 8 - (Acetyl Hexapeptide -3) These peptides work together to provide a comprehensive approach to anti-aging skincare, supporting the skin's natural processes and maintaining a youthful appearance. Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is a natural humectant that can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water. It helps to hydrate the skin, making it look plumper and more supple. Adequately moisturized skin appears smoother and can help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Niacinamide: Also known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. It helps improve skin barrier function, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone, and reduce the visibility of enlarged pores. Niacinamide can also help regulate sebum production, making it suitable for various skin types. It's important to note that while these ingredients can be beneficial for slowing down the aging process, consistent use and proper skincare routine are key to achieving the best results. Additionally, it's essential to use sunscreen daily, as sun protection is one of the most crucial factors in preventing premature skin aging caused by UV damage. Before incorporating new skincare products or ingredients, it's always advisable to consult with a skincare professional, especially if you have sensitive or problematic skin. If you need help understanding the ingredients in your products or not sure what products to use, schedule “Ask the Esthetician” and we will help you.

  • Ask The Esthetician

    See Jill chatting about skin care on PHTV Channel 4.

  • How to Care for Your Skin

    How do you care for your skin? Do you Skin Cycle? Caring for your skin at home each day is so important. Think about it - caring two times a day, 365 days a year, is a lot of care. And your skin will benefit from all this love. Caring for your skin at home requires a commitment, but once you’re in the groove it’s not overwhelming, but actually fairly simple. The key is getting the steps down and using skin care products with ingredients that focus on your skin concerns. Simply focusing on the latest product trend may not be the right solution for you. Here are several concepts for your daily care regimen: 1. Protect in the day; treat at night Daytime care requires you to wear sunscreen every day all year long. During the day you are protecting your skin from sun exposure, pollution and blue light, to name a few. Nighttime is when our bodies restore and repair during sleep. This is the time you use your treatment products to get the full benefit for your skin 2. Use your products on your face, neck and décolleté, and include your hands when you can both morning and night. 3. Seasonal Skin Care Changes In the Midwest, there is a seasonal aspect to caring for your skin - we really only have 2 seasons, summer and winter. Summer is more forgiving with the higher humidity levels, although sun protection is essential. Winter is harsh on our skin and requires extra moisture and protection on the outer layer of the skin. The furnaces suck all the moisture out and the wind and cold can damage the outer layer or the barrier layer of your skin. Changing your cleanser and moisturizer can help your skin throughout the winter. And don’t forget to wear sunscreen every day all year long. 4. Change your skin care routine as you age What worked for you a couple of years ago may not work for your skin now. Your skin changes as we go through the aging process especially hormonal changes reflected in your skin. If you feel your skin is dull, dehydrated and not looking healthy it is essential to change your skin care products to aging beautifully. What’s in your products? Do you know what’s in your products? Do the ingredients match your concerns? If not, you may be wasting precious resources for no results or potentially hurting your skin. To learn more about what’s in your products schedule a session at SkinTrust with Ask The Esthetician. What is the right order of applying your products? I get a lot of questions about the order of applying products and it’s important so you get the best benefits from them. Here’s some guidelines: AM - Morning Cleanse * Toner - there should be a specific reason you are using a toner, otherwise it’s not necessary Eye Cream - yes eyes need special care with specifically formulated products Treatment Serum - always want this closest to your skin for best results; If using a liquid and cream serum, the liquid goes on first. Hydrating Serum Moisturizer or face oil Sunscreen** Makeup *It is important to cleanse your skin in the morning. For mature skin, you could use a hydrating toner especially in the winter. For other skin types, cleansing is essential because bacteria builds up during the night along with unwanted oil that needs to be removed. ** Remember sun damage is cumulative; even ten minutes of exposure a day over the course of a lifetime is enough to cause major problems. PM - Evening • Makeup Remover - remove eye and then face makeup. Makeup removal is not the same as cleansing. Be sure to remove above the eyebrows and around the nose. You can use a makeup removal oil, a wipe, dampen a cotton round with toner or place a small amount of cleanser on a cotton round to remove your makeup. Then proceed to double cleanse.* • Cleanse • Exfoliate - 2 to 3 nights a week & can be your second cleanse • Eye cream • Spot treat blemishes • Treatment serum • Treatment product or moisturizer • Lip balm * Never go to bed with makeup on. If you do it can result in clogged pores and breakouts, and the development of milia - white heads. And over time not taking off your makeup can cause premature aging. If you are too tired to really remove your makeup and cleanse your skin, grab a wipe and at least get the makeup off. But, don’t do this every night. What is Skin Cycling? The new buzz in skin care and social media is Skin Cycling. Developed by dermatologist Dr. Whtiney Bowe, this approach to daily care of your skin treats and nourishes while reducing or stopping inflammation. That’s important because inflammation can lead to increased sensitivity, break-outs, and might even accelerate the aging process. In my practice, I see clients that over exfoliate or over resurface their skin, don’t nourish at all. Many people believe more is better, but really that’s not true with your skin. Skin Cycling is a great approach to gently, but effectively treat skin. As Dr. Bowe explains, and The world of skincare was becoming needlessly complicated. After listening to my patients and examining how their skin was reacting to different routines, I saw the need to streamline their routine to optimize skin health, she says. "The truth is you only need a few products used in a very deliberate way to drive amazing results. And the few products both treat and nourish." How to Practice Skin Cycling To practice skin cycling you need: • Chemical exfoliators (AHA’s - lactic, glycolic or BHA - salicylic acid) depending on your skin type and conditions • Retinoid - many different formations - have a professional guide you on what formulations is best for you skin • Moisturizer - with nourishing ingredients like anti-oxidants, peptides, hyaluronic acid or anti-inflammatory ingredients • Moisturizing or nourishing mask The Skin Cycle Routine is: • Night 1: Exfoliate using a AHA or BHA, followed with moisturizer • Night 2: Treat - use a Retinoid product • Night 3 & 4: Recovery and nourish. Use a moisturizer or a face mask • Repeat Cycle If these steps are properly followed, results should be seen in roughly two skin cycles or eight days. Let's dive a little deeper into the purpose behind each one. Night 1: Exfoliate A chemical exfoliant like a AHA or BHA, not physical exfoliant is recommend. The reason for this is because chemical exfoliants prep the skin to get the most out of the retinoid that is used on night 2. So no physical exfoliators- those with a grain like texture. This step is designed to only be followed up with a moisturizer. Night 2: Retinoid After cleansing on the second night, apply a small amount of a retinoid. If you have sensitive skin, you can us a retinol acetate or a retinol sandwich method on this day of the skin cycling journey. Retinol sandwiching is applying a moisture first, then retinoid, followed by the moisturizer again, especially in areas like around the eyes, the corners of the nose and mouth, and the neck. Never use the retinoid cream close to your eyes. In fact, apply your eye cream prior to applying the retinoid. Learn more about retinoids and what formulations is right for your skin. Night 3 & 4: Recovery The recovery night is exactly what it sounds like. This is the time to give your skin a chance to recover from the chemical exfoliation and retinoid that were just used. It is key in this step to not use any active ingredients or exfoliants. These nights should focus on nourishing, hydrating and repairing the barrier. This gives your skin a chance to bounce back. In summary, Skin Cycling is a beneficial way to get the most from your active products for sensitive skin, mature, or acne prone skin. It’s also a great way to introduce a product into your skin. Another way to look at Skin Cycling is to use a particular skin care brand for 4 to 5 months, then change to another brand. This is great for seasonal skin care concerns. And allows for different actives on your skin, which can be very beneficial. To learn how to skin cycle your products, schedule Ask the Esthetician session at SkinTrust. SkinTrust, Palos Heights Esthetician Highly recommended for serving Palos Heights, and the surrounding Palos Park and Palos Hills, SkinTrust offers services and treatments ranging from a classic facial, to chemical peels, to aging beautifully treatments, and the finishing touches of makeup. ​Although not a dermatology practice, SkinTrust offers advanced treatments including fillers, botox, micro-needling, and threading provided by our Nurse Practitioner. Whether you want a single facial, several treatment options from our Power of Youthful Aging skin, or product recommendations - all options are customized to meet your needs. Let Skin Trust help you with Aging Beautifully and enjoying healthy, beautiful skin.

  • Vitamin A - the “Hero” ingredient of skin care. What are retinoids and why should you use one?

    Topical Vitamin A is the powerhouse ingredient for anti-aging products. Over the course of 35 years, many retinoid products (Vitamin A) were developed thus, this ingredient has evolved significantly since the beginning in skin care. It all started in 1971 when Dr. Albert M. Kligman, a famous Dermatologist at the University of Pennsylvania, discovered Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid) for acne treatment. It was sold by Johnson & Johnson with the brand name of Retin-A and was an extremely effective acne treatment and is still on the market 35 years later. Retinoid products were first available by prescription only starting with Retin-A used to treat once. Then it was discovered that Topical Retinoids were also effective in treating anti-aging conditions such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of collagen. Therefore the pharmaceutical world developed Renova, which is Retin A with a moisturizing ingredient. Over time the world of topical Vitamin A products or retinoids evolved and now medical grade products and over the counter products contain some form of a retinoid. And with that it can be quite confusing to select one for your skin conditions. So let me help break this world of retinoids down so you understand some of the primary differences. What does a retinoid product do for your skin? The main benefits are anti-aging and acne treatment. Specific benefits include: • Increases exfoliation or desquamation, smoothes skin, creates an even skin texture • Increases cell renewal or new cell growth • Stimulates collagen production through creating fiber blasts in the dermis • Fight free radicals, which damage your skin • Promotes and maintains healthy skin tissue • Brightens and lightens skin color - photo damage(dark spots) and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) • Improves firmness by working at the epidermal/dermal junction • Regenerates UV damaged skin • Thickens the epidermis • Increases skin cell turnover to heal lesions and acne scars • Improves collagen production • Reduces the appearance of pores & unclogs pores Here are the primary types of retinoids available in skin care: Prescription - Retinoids - Retin A( Tretinoin), Renova, Tazarotene, and Adapalene (Differein), now available OTC. This group is strong, effective and irritating to skin. Transitioning your skin into the use is important. Medical Grade - Retinol can be irritating. Retinyl Acetate is effective and not irritating. OTC - Retinyl Palmitate, retinaldenhyde or retinal. Less effective and non-irritating Retinyl Palmitate or acetate can be used as a preservative at very low concentrations in products. If used this way, there is no effect on your skin. Prescription Retinoid Products The prescription products of RetinA and Renova contain retinoic acid, which is what the body uses directly to treat skin conditions, meaning no conversion is happening in your skin once it is applied. Although very effective, it can also cause skin irritation. It is recommended to phase or transition your skin into this product over time; don’t use it every day in the beginning, and make sure to use sun protection. These two products are very good for mild acne to severe acne, acne scars and photo or sun damaged skin. Medical Grade Products Medical Grade products are products that are not prescription but have a high concentration of active ingredients with medical research behind them. These are products available at a dermatologist office, estheticians or med-spa. These products use retinol or retinyl acetate in their formulations. Retinol is broken down in the body to produce the retinoic acid which does the work. Retinyl acetate takes two steps to break it down in your skin for use. However, there is still some irritation with a retinol product but not with the retinyl acetate product. Each of these ingredients are effective and it depends on your skin’s condition and your age to select the right formulation for you. Over-the-Counter Products The primary ingredient used in the over the counter retinol products is retinoid palmitate which is a gentle form of Vitamin A and takes three steps in your skin to break down and do its work. Your skin is getting some benefit, but this is the less effective retinoid. Another retinoid ingredient new to the market, and one to watch is Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR). This ingredient has a high efficacy and associated with little irritation. Ingredient Concentrations The types of products and ingredients above are all effective but at various levels based on the concentration of the retinoid and in some cases the ingredient carrier system. A stronger retinoid at a lower concentration can be more effective than an a weaker retinoid at a high concentration. For example you could use a retinyl acetate at a 1% that’s as effective as a retinol as a 0.05% , but the retinol can cause irritated skin. Medical grade products also contain different carrier systems in the product formulation that should be considered when selecting the concentration. A product with a 0.05% concentration but a deeper carrier system can be equal to a higher concentration. Again, selecting the right product formulation depends on what you are treating and your skin condition. Having a dermatologist or esthetician help you make the right decision is essential. What is more effective - a gel or lotion? A retinoid or retinol gel formulation absorbs better in the skin than a lotion. Although a cream is not absorbed as quickly ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin can enhance the absorption. Retinol Treatments In addition to the daily care products formulated with a retinoid, there are professional treatments that have much higher concentrations that are very effective for acne or aging issues of the skin. Here are a couple examples of professional retinol treatments: • 2.5% Vitamin A Accelerator by Circadia - Is added to a facial or chemical peel to accelerate the results. Very good for your skin once a quarter to slow down aging and more frequently for pigmentation and acne issues. • 4% to 6% Pure Retinol Peel by PCA - Very effective in treating aging skin, pigment disorders, smoker’s skin and photo or sun damaged skin. How to use a retinoid product? When adding retinol products to your skincare routine, all retinoid products should be used at night, and it is a must to use a daily broad spectrum sun screen. Be sure to use an eye cream before applying the retinoid product to your skin to protect that area. Retinoids can be too harsh for the under eyes. When should you start to use a retinoid product? It all depends on your age, how your skin is aging and if you have a skin condition like acne or dark spots or sun damaged skin. How our skin ages depends on the following: • Intrinsic aging - aging issues that start in our bodies naturally in our late 20’s and we begin to see the effects in our mid 30’s and beyond. • Extrinsic aging - what the environment, lifestyle or sun exposure does to our skin These issues accelerates the inner aging process. If you don’t have sun damage, smoked, and are going through the normal aging process starting a retinoid product with a lower concentration retinyl acetate in your 30’s make sense. Additionally starting with a Vitamin C and of course, always using a broad spectrum sunscreen. As you progress into your forties you can move up to a product with a higher concentration of the retinyl acetate or retinol and professional treatments using the higher concentrations of retinol. On the other hand, if you have sun damage, I suggest starting with a retinol product at 0.05%. And definitely add professional treatments using the higher levels of retinol. We all think that more is better and that’s really not the case with these retinoid products. When using these products, you want to control any inflammation because inflammation causes premature aging. Using higher concentrations or different formulations are not always the best way to go. Topical Retinoid and Vitamin A Alternatives In addition to the many forms of retinoids, there are a number of plant based alternatives (also known as retin-alts) that provide similar benefits to retinoids while being much gentler though not as effective.These are becoming increasingly popular in the skin care world. They both are great for people new to retinoids or have tried in the past but found they could not tolerate. Bakuchiol This is the most popular retinoid alternative and is natural and plant based. Also it has been used throughout history in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine. Bakuchiol has antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties similar to retinol and treats signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. It will increase firmness & reduce the appearance of pores. Revinage Revinage is a retinol-like molecule obtained from the extracts of Bidens Pilosa, palm seed oil, linseed oil, and cottonseed oil. It is known to mimic retinol-like action through the retinoid receptors in the skin. It is known for its powerful, anti-oxidant, and anti-inflammatory affects. It brings about all the change without causing any side effects. It is available in the form of topical lotions, serums, creams and is also found in lipsticks. It has an excellent safety profile and can be used even in sensitive skin types without it causing much trouble. In conclusion, retinoids are powerful ingredients to use on your skin. Work with a skin care professional to help select the right formulation for your skin. At SkinTrust, we have many formulations of retinoids for daily and professional use. We can help you select the right one for your skin and concerns. SkinTrust, Palos Heights Esthetician Highly recommended for serving Palos Heights, and the surrounding Palos Park and Palos Hills, SkinTrust offers services and treatments ranging from a classic facial, to chemical peels, to aging beautifully treatments, and the finishing touches of makeup. ​Although not a dermatology practice, SkinTrust offers advanced treatments including fillers, botox, micro-needling, and threading provided by our Nurse Practitioner. Whether you want a single facial, several treatment options from our Power of Youthful Aging skin, or product recommendations - all options are customized to meet your needs. Let Skin Trust help you with Aging Beautifully and enjoying healthy, beautiful skin.

  • Botox Injections: Is Botox just for Women Over 40?

    A common question I get is can a young woman get botox and usually they are referring to someone under 30. My initial reaction is no, even though I get botox myself around my eyes to soften the wrinkles 3 to 4 times a year. I am comfortable with that because I didn’t start getting botox until I was 53. But I have always been much less comfortable with a person (men use botox too) starting at a young age, so I decided to research this issue. The purpose of this blog is to provide information if you are considering Botox injections. What is Botox? Botox is botulinum toxin or neurotoxin used in highly diluted form. In the 1970’s, Dr. Alan Scott, an ophthalmologist in San Francisco, started to use botox for blepharospasm or uncontrollable blinking or therapeutic uses. He branded the new drug with the name “Oculinum”. Around the same time, biochemist Edward Schantz started using botox to treat strabismus, the condition more commonly known as “crossed eyes”. By the 1980’s the toxin was widely used by both ophthalmologists and neurologists as a remedy for crossed eyes, uncontrollable blinking, and other facial, eyelids and limb spasms. Jean Carruthers, an ophthalmologist, was the first to discover botox’s cosmetic potential. While using botox on a patient, the patient commented on how they would get a beautiful untroubled expression after it was used. This prompted Dr. Carruthers to apply the toxin to a staff member’s brow/glabella area, which took away that angry tired look. After this finding, it took another decade before people were persuaded to use it for cosmetic use. Physicians struggled with the idea of using a poison to paralyze and relax muscles to take away lines - they thought this was foreign and bizarre. However, the world changed. In 1991 Allergan bought Botox and in 2002 the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved it for cosmetic use in the glabellar lines. By 2015 over 11 million people were using Botox. Currently we have about 20 years of experience with Botox’s use for cosmetic purposes. How is Botox used? When Botox is injected it blocks signals from your nerves to your muscles. This prevents the targeted muscles from contracting, which can ease certain muscular conditions and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Cosmetically, Botox is typically used to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Botox can relax the muscles that cause: crow’s feet or wrinkles that appear at the outer corner of the eyes frown lines between the eyebrows forehead creases Therapeutically, Botox is also used to treat underlying muscular conditions such as: amblyopia ( lazy eye) eye twitching chronic migraines cervical dystonia ( neck spams) overactive bladder hyperhidrosis ( excessive sweating) certain neurological conditions like cerebral palsy Why are women (and men) attracted to Botox? Advancements in medicine and science now allow humans to live and work longer. The “look better-feel younger” approach using Botox has an immediate visual effect on older people skin, with long term benefits on their state of mind. There is a social obsession with youthfulness and discrimination against older adults. Older individuals start the use of Botox to provide confidence and satisfaction with their self-image. Younger people are using Botox to prevent fine lines and wrinkles. Correcting with Botox Treatments Your skin gradually ages and everyone’s skin ages differentially. Aging issues can be accelerated with significant sun exposure, genetics and lifestyle issues include alcohol consumption, poor diet and lack of exercise. As you age, facial expressions or wrinkles, pigmentation including dark spots, and collagen and elastin loss results in sagging skin. Botox is an anti-aging treatment for moderate - to - severe wrinkles. Botox is primarily used around the eyes, softening the “crow’s feet”, in the glabellar area - the 11’s in-between your eye brows, on the forehead to soften lines and sometime in the lip area to soften the lip lines above the top lip. Preventing with Botox The use of Botox started with individuals showing signs of aging in their faces. It is now used as a preventative treatment for young woman who present no signs of aging. They want it and the sooner the better. The fundamental question for a young person getting Botox is: Will it do more good than harm over the course of the years you receive it? Young people may be confused with facial expressions and wrinkles. If you have lines around your eyes when smelling and lines on your forehead when rising brows inquisitively, these are lines of facial expression and not wrinkles. Facial expressions are a natural consequence of dynamic movement of the facial muscles and is not related to the aging process. However in areas where you do see facial expression lines, starting in your mid to late 20’s, using a medical grade eye cream and facial serum to soften the expression lines is a good strategy. I remember seeing my first expression lines around my eyes at 27, which motivated me to use an eye cream. That was a great help in keeping the skin under and around my eyes conditioned and softened the lines. Research suggests with the passage of time, wrinkles will develop in the areas of facial expression and using good products can help reduce this effect. Research also indicates starting Botox between the ages of 30 and 50 can prevent dynamic wrinkles from forming and eliminate existing wrinkles. However, there is little research to support individuals between 18 and 30 using Botox to prevent wrinkles. If you are in the younger age group you need to consider: Starting Botox requires a long term investment without a guaranteed return - the financial price is high because of the need to get injections every 3 to 6 months Are you willing to forfeit facial expressions at an important time of social development in the hopes that Botox will starve off wrinkles later in adult life? On the issue of facial expressions, Botox has been very successful in eliminating the perpetual frown that comes from the facial expression lines between the eyebrows. This improvement decreases the angry look portrayed by frowning. Will this change emotionally enhance your well being? How people make the decision to use Botox The use of Botox started with the mid-aged women to maintain her youthfulness. The baby boomer women in particular do not want to age as the generation before them, but on their own terms. They are working longer, more active, and want to maintain a youthfulness in appearance. Botox helps them achieve this goal. As more and more women use botox, social networks spread the news, and give some comfort in trying Botox. The manufactures are aggressively promoting the preventative aspects of Botox in addition to correction. They are growing their market share. And does Botox fit with your beauty plan or regular body upkeep? Currently 3 to 5 % of women have Botox injections. Women have many investment choices to make: Hair, nails, skin care, injections…and many other options for their beauty plan and body upkeep. Potential Side Effects of Botox With Botox injections for cosmetic use minor side effects are possible and include: pain, swelling or bruising at the injection site headache fever chills Some side effects are tied to the area of the injection. For example if you get an injection in the eye area, you may experience: drooping eyelids uneven eyebrows dry eyes excessive tearing Most side effects are temporary and should fade within a few days. But dropping eyelids, drooling and asymmetry of the mouth are all caused by unintentional effects of the toxin on muscles surrounding the target area of the drug. These side effects may take several weeks to improve as the toxin wears off. If you are considering botox injections be sure to use someone who is a licensed professional with vast experience, preferably with someone who just does injections. Working with someone who is not licensed or experienced may be more affordable or convenient but doing so can increase your risk of complications. Long term Botox use - is it safe? Since Botox has only been used for 20 years in the cosmetic world, research is limited on the long term effects. However, the limited research conducted gives pause to starting at a young age. Botox injections usually last 3 to 6 months so to maintain repeated injections are necessary. Here are findings from several studies on the long term use: One study concludes that the risk of adverse effects didn’t increase over time. People who received repeated injections also had better treatment success in the long term. Another study showed that adverse effects may appear after the 10th or 11th injection. Several studies caution younger women (18-30) about the use of Botox because of the muscle weakness, atrophy and loss of contractile tissue in the non-injected muscles far removed from the injection site. Botox has also shown muscle loss and weakness or atrophy from the non use of the specific muscle injected This could lead to saggy muscles over time. Alternatives to Botox The aesthetic world is full of alternatives to Botox. Like any injections, they will not give you an immediate result but they can slow down the aging process. Here are some basics alternatives: Use an eye cream morning and night starting in you 20’s Micro-current lifts and strengthens the facial muscles naturally. (I actually use this in-between my Botox injections to strengthen my facial and eye muscles) Protect your skin including your eyes from the sun. Photo damage accelerates aging and creates wrinkles and fine lines. Look for specific skin care treatments for the eyes and others areas that potentially you use as an alternative to Botox. At SkinTrust we have facials specifically for the eyes, hydrating treatments and micro-current to lift the muscles. Key Findings There is no ideal chronological age to start botox injections. Botox is used to address aging issues and primarily used to correct existing wrinkles and lines to prevent further damage. This is very appealing to the aging women who wanted to maintain a youthful appearance. There is inherent risk with using Botox over time because of the potential impact on the muscles injected or surrounding muscles. Some research indicates that cosmetic applications may carry less risk than therapeutic Botox injections because the dose is usually much smaller. As you can see from these findings, more research necessary. Twenty years, and primarily older women receiving the injections, is just not enough time or diverse sample to assess the complete impact, both benefits and risks.

  • Caring for your skin in colder weather

    The weather is changing and we can all feel it. Temperatures and humidity levels dropped and the furnaces have come on. These changes have an extreme impact on our skin. It is essential to prepare, and change your skin care starting now so when the really cold, windy weather gets here your skin is ready. Why is the winter weather so harsh on our skin? Skin is responsible for regulating body temperatures, removing skin toxins and pathogens, and acting as a barrier to maintain adequate hydration. Fall/winter brings cool, dry air, more indoor heating along with changes in eating and exercise habits. Cold weather and especially cold winds in combination with the increased use of central heating has a dramatic drying effect on the skin. Just this week, my clients talked about how dry they felt their skin is already becoming. One of the main purposes of our top layer of skin or the stratum corneum is to regulate water loss from the skin to the atmosphere. A healthy skin barrier consists of a finely-tuned balance of microbes and cells, proteins, and epidermal lipids that “glue” together. When this outer skin layer is disrupted by changing weather conditions it’s functioning is compromised resulting in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), inflammatory chemicals are produced and the skin becomes more fragile and dehydrated. Skin Conditions Resulting from being exposed to Cold Weather Dry skin is a skin type. It occurs when the skin lacks oil and is due to decreased oil production. It is not cause by lack of hydration or water retention but is caused by not using a moisture that replenishes the natural oil and lipids of the skin. Dry skin can cause flaking skin which happens as skin cells flake off without the lipids that normally hold them in place. Dehydrated skin is a skin condition. It occurs when the skin lacks moisture and water. Dehydrated skin lacks water due to external factors like dry weather. Thus, it’s more common in the winter due to the cold dry air, low humidity levels and dry furnace heat. As well as feeling uncomfortable, tight and possibly irritated -red and itchy, dehydrated skin looks dry and dull, and lines, wrinkles and pores became accentuated. Cold air also narrows the skin’s pores and reduces blood circulation. This decreases the naturally occurring oil (sebum), which acts as a protective layer and traps moisture next to the skin. The resulting compromised barrier layer together with the lower air humidity during winter causes the skin to dehydrate. It is possible that you can have both oily and dehydrated skin at the same time. To combat winter temperatures skin dehydration it is important to choose products that moisturize the skin but do not clog the oil glands and create acne. Acne prone individuals may find their acne worsens due to winter skin care changes. This may be due to an imbalance of oil and water on the skin or due to lifestyle changes such as changes in diet and exercise during the winter months. Low humidity, in particular, will aggravate or create new skin conditions. These conditions include: Eczema - is a chronic skin inflammation causing cracked, dry, flaking, itchy read or scaly skin. Psoriasis - A condition when skin cells are overproduced forming scaly patches and dry skin. Rosacea - this condition can flare up by emotional changes such as depression, seasonal affective disorder (SAD) and stress - all common this time of year. Though there is no way to eliminate rosacea, effective treatments can relieve the symptoms. Seborrheic Dermatitis - Symptoms of this condition include itchy, flaky, peeling skin and severe dandruff. It worsens in the low humidity of winter and has cumulative effect as the increased shedding of skin cells results in even more water loss. Medicated shampoos are the best treatment for this condition. How to care for your skin in cold temperatures Use an oil base or creamy cleanser if you have normal or mature skin. Add additional moisture to you skin with a serum or mist, then apply a thicker moisturizer to prevent moisture loss and protect your skin from the cold temperatures. I have many people change their moisturizer between summer and winter weather. Your moisturizer needs to work with your specific skin type and conditions. Here are some of my favorite moisturizers: Longue Vie by Guinot - The 56 active ingredients in this cream help to rejuvenate, soften fine lines/wrinkles and heal damaged skin. Good for mature skin, all skin types and anti-aging. Aquaporin by Circadia- Maintains and increases your skin's moisture with a burst of the latest, most effective hydrating agents. Good for normal and mature skin types. Moisture on Demand by Circadia - A new concept in smart products. This lightweight serum provides hydration as needed while adjusting to the climatic conditions. Good for skin that is prone to break outs. For normal skin, avoid over exfoliating. Pull back to exfoliating to only 2 times a week. Also reduce the number of times per week you use a cleansing brush. Too much exfoliation will irritate the outer layer of skin and destroy the integrity of its function. Aim to use products with hyaluronic acid as it can draw moisture into the skin and help retain it. This ingredient is good for all skin types. I personally love the Hyaluronic Layering by Intraceutcials. Hyaluronic Acid Layering Rejuvenate by Intraceuticals - Revive, replenish and protect your skin with this layering process that combines three specific combinations of Hyaluronic acids which work together to provide perfect hydrodynamic designed to deliver hydration and ingredients to the uppers layers of the skin. Other tips to help your skin fight the cold air: You may want to reduce the number of times per week you use a retinol product depending on its formulation. Use a hydrating balm on your lips at night to prevent overnight dehydration. Try a moisturizing mask at night once or twice a week. The concentrated ingredients in a mask will help maintain the proper functioning of the outer layer of your skin. If you have normal or mature skin stay away from toners that reduce oil. For normal or mature skin, use a hydrating toner in the morning versus cleansing your skin with a cleanser and water; water on the skin can be drying. Refrain from fragranced products that may irritate skin. Don’t forget sunscreen - use it every day! Consider using a humidifier to increase humidity indoors. Refrain from long hot showers as they strip the oil, which protects our skin. Exfoliate your body by dry brushing. Dry brush, jump in the shower, towel dry off and then apply a moisturizer. Jojoba oil or shea butter are wonderful to keep your body skin in great shape. Don’t dress in clothing with a rough texture especially wool. And, don’t forget about your lips and hands. Try to exfoliate each of these areas regularly and protect them with hyaluronic acid and conditioning oils. Protecting your lips morning and night is essential during the colder weather. Supplements and eating to feed your skin in colder weather Try to get 7-8 hours of sleep every night. The body, including your skin, repairs and rejuvenates during sleep. If you are sleep deprived you have a greater chance of experiencing moisture loss and dehydrated skin. A healthy diet with regular exercise can help to boost protection for your skin. Make exercise a priority as it improves systemic circulation, including the skin. The delivery of nutrients and oxygen to the surface of the skin boosts hydration and promotes beautiful glowing skin. Drinks lots of water to keep hydrated as skin health depends on the nourishment receives from within. Eat a healthy diet including one with essential fatty acids like avocados, salmon and good oils such as olive oil, grape-seed oil and avocado oil. Eat the rainbow! Studies show that a colorful plant-based diet can make your skin look healthier. Beta carotene, the anti-oxidant responsible for giving red, orange and yellow fruit and vegetables their color is essential for skin health - try to eat sweet potatoes, pumpkins, carrots and squash. Anthocyanidins found in berries, plums, and red onions are responsible for giving them their red and purple color. Anthocyanidins support blood vessels health and the delivery of nutrients and oxygen to the skin. And don’t forget supplements as they can enrich your diet and protect your skin from cold air. Here’s some of the best ones: Fish Oil - boosts Omega 3 levels and improves the skin’s natural barrier function. Great for dry skin. Zinc - helps the body use of essential fatty acids better. Additionally helps regulate oil glands, which are important to keeping your skin smooth and plumb and to repair skin damage. B-Complex - Supports skin health and is a healthy stress response in the body, which can have a positive impact on skin health. Vitamin C - Stimulates collagen and helps protect our skin from ultraviolet rays. It also decreases the risk of dry skin, and promotes healthy skin conditions with the productions of lipids that can prevent water loss in the skin. Vitamin C also assists in the healing of minor body tissue injuries. Remember, the main issues of the colder months are to protect your skin from wind and cold and prevent moisture loss. If you are not sure if your products are right, schedule a session of Ask the Esthetician. I will look at your skin, then your product ingredients and make recommendations on how to use them to keep your skin healthy this fall and winter. Stay warm and stay safe! Highly recommended for serving Palos Heights, and the surrounding Palos Park and Palos Hills, SkinTrust offers services and treatments ranging from a classic facial, to chemical peels, to aging beautifully treatments and the finishing touches of makeup. ​Although not a dermatology practice, SkinTrust offers advanced treatments including fillers, botox, micro-needling, and threading provided by our Nurse Practitioner. Whether you want a single facial, several treatment options from our Power of Youthful Aging, or product recommendations - all options are customized to meet your needs. Let Skin Trust help you with Aging Beautifully and enjoying healthy, beautiful skin.

  • Hyaluronic Layering by Intraceuticals

    One of the key aging issues with skin is the loss of moisture. Moisture is held in the skin by hyaluronic acid. Starting in our late twenties hyaluronic acid decreases. It is a slow process but by our early to mid forties you can see the evidence of moisture loss from dehydrated skin, fine lines and wrinkles and diminished elasticity. Hyaluronic layering by Intraceuticals puts moisture back into your skin. Using compress oxygen to force the serum deeper into your skin, this 3 layer treatment plumbs, lifts and brightens your skin. Hyaluronic acid is big in skin care, but not all products are created equal. Some containing hyaluronic acid simply sit on the skin and don’t penetrate - the molecule is too large. Hyaluronic layering uses a serum with a small molecular weight and coupled with the compressed oxygen it goes deep into the epidermis. That’s followed by a hyaluronic acid get that has a medium weight hyaluronic acid that continues to penetrate. Both are followed with a moisture binding cream to keep in in the skin. Whether you get the treatment, use the products at home or do both, you will experience instant beautiful results. Watch the video below to learn more.

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