Learn More About How A Chemical Peel Can Help Your Skin The use of exfoliation methods to enhance beauty and improve the appearance of skin dates back to the ancient Egyptians. In the mid-1800s, the use of aggressive exfoliation methods was successful but also had the risk of side effects and complications. Today, there is a surge of mild to moderate chemical peeling techniques that are geared towards progressive versus aggressive. To explain today’s facial chemical peel options we need to start with learning about skin exfoliation and then advance to chemical peels. What is Skin Exfoliation? Our skin has a natural exfoliating process called cellular turnover. Cell turnover is the process by which skin makes new skin cells, traveling from the lowest layer of the epidermis to the top layer and then shedding them off. This occurs on the top layer of your skin as your body releases the dead cells and replaces them with cells from deeper in the epidermis. In healthy skin, cell turnover is approximately every 28 days until a person reaches 30, after which this natural exfoliation process decreases at an estimated rate of about 10 days per decade. This decrease in the skin’s natural exfoliation can contribute to fine lines, wrinkles, acne, and a dull, dry appearance. Stimulating the rate of the cell renewal process can reduce superficial conditions while simultaneously building healthy structures and skin cells. You can exfoliate your skin at home, and you should up to three times a week for normal skin, and that ensures that there is no dead skin build-up. Types of Exfoliation There are two ways to remove dead skin cells: Mechanical Scrubs, microdermabrasion, sonic brushes - slough dead skin cells off the skin’s top layer. Chemical Enzymes - (Bromelain, Papain) - gently removes dead skin cells Alpha hydroxy acids ( lactic, glycolic, malic, citrus) - removed dead skin cells and plumbs, hydrates, and brightens Beta hydroxy acids ( salicylic acid) - removes dead skin cells, and depending on the concentration can impact the cellular renewal process in the epidermis. When used as an exfoliant the acid ingredients concentration is lower than when used in true chemical peels. What is the Difference Between Exfoliation and a Deep Chemical Peel? In the esthetic or skin care world, chemical peels, exfoliation, or resurfacing are terms used interchangeably. All chemical peels are a form of exfoliation or resurfacing of the skin. The difference is how deep they go into the skin. Basically, there are three levels of exfoliating Removing dead skin build-up Stimulating the cell renewal process Creating a wound response (just exfoliating will not do this but chemical peels do) What is a Chemical Peel? Chemical peels will do more for your skin and are classified into the following categories all based on how deep the peel ingredients or formulations work: Very Superficial Work in the very top layers of the skin in the epidermis. Superficial Work in the epidermis, which consists of 5 thin layers. Medium Depth Work in the top layer of the dermis. Deep Peels Work in both layers of the dermis. Chemical peels stimulate and accelerate cellular turnover and additionally create a controlled wound response. When skin responds to acute inflammation, it stimulates the growth of new cells, resulting in new healthier skin and an enhanced appearance. Types of Peels Chemical peel solutions are made up of acids either singular or in a blend. The acids are formulated by the skin care product manufacturer and the formulation with the application determines the depth of the peel. The main acids used in chemical peels are: Alpha Hydroxy Acids - glycolic, lactic, malic, citrus Beta Hydroxy Acids - salicylic Pyruvic Mandeli Trichloroacetic Acid - TCA Resorcinol Modified Jessners - resorcinol, lactic and salicylic acids Retinol Phenol ( only under the care of a physician) Skin care professionals are trained on the concentration of the acids and the PH and pKa, which all determine how deep the peel will go. They also know how to layer the peels to achieve a controlled response. They know which formulations are best for the client’s particular conditions or concerns. They also consider the color of the client's skin as this is essential is safely applying chemical peels. There are chemical peels that are used as an enhanced exfoliation in the treatment room and are neutralized so there is no flaking or downtime. These peels usually consist of lactic, salicylic, or glycolic acid, or a blend of these three. These remove dead skin build-up and enhance the cellular removal process. They do not create a wound response. Skin benefits include smoother skin, decreased fine lines, and firmer skin. Salicylic acid removes oil and decreases inflammation. Then there are peels that are layered on the skin and are not neutralized, but rather self-neutralized. There will go deeper and create a wound response. These peels use a variety of chemical combinations, as listed above, many times with a retinol booster. Post peel flakiness of the skin can occur, but whether you experience this or not, the chemicals are in your skin doing their job. Pre and post-care are extremely important with these types of peels. Are Chemical Peels Good for my Skin? A facial chemical peel selected for your skin condition and concerns is a very effective treatment to: Improve complexion texture Reduce fine lines and wrinkles Reduce age spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (caused by break-outs) Strengthens skin keeping it active and youthful Improves most grades of acne & acne scarring Stimulate collagen & elastin to slow the aging process Facial chemical peels are acid-based solutions that are intended to create a partial-thickness injury or a wound response, in order to remove the outermost layers of the skin. This results in a wound healing process to increase the regeneration of epidermal tissue. The intention of a chemical peel is to improve the appearance of the skin by stimulating new, healthier, and younger tissue. They have been scientifically validated and are one of the most effective skin care treatments available. What Can I Expect with the Chemical Peel Process? You may or may not peel or have flaky skin from a chemical treatment, however, the chemicals are in your skin and doing what they are meant to. Here are factors on how your skin will react to peeling treatments: The percentage of acid in the product The pH of the product The amount of time left on the skin (for timed peels) The number of layers applied to the area (for layered peels) The amount of product applied to a given surface area The condition of the skin before the treatment Products used before the treatment Post care compliance Prepping solution used Will You See results After One Peel? Yes, but it all depends on why you are getting the treatment. Do you have to break out prone skin or acne? Do you want to keep your skin in good shape? Do you want to remove sun damage? If you are treating a specific condition, most likely you will see an improvement but will need a series of treatments to get the optimal result. That’s the progressive approach and each chemical peel treatment produces more results and it is a safer approach for your skin. Preparing for a Chemical Peel It is essential to prepare your skin for a chemical peel treatment to support the healing process. This should start two to six weeks before the peel. Using products with good ingredients conditions the skin and ensure cellular turnover is taking place. Guidelines include: Use a cleanser with low levels of glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid. Discontinue three days prior to the peel Darker color skin types should use a lighten product for 14 days Vitamin A or retinol products are good to enhance cellular renewal but must be discontinued three days before the peel treatment If you get cold sores it is recommended to be treated with an antiviral medication from your physician several days before you have the facial chemical peel treatment After the Chemical Peel You should receive very specific instructions and products to use for the next five to seven days if it is a self-neutralizing chemical peel. It is essential to protect the skin from sunlight, do not exercise for 48 hours post, and use gentle healing products to accelerate the healing process. Keeping the skin hydrated is very important as the skin will heal better in a moist environment. Half of the results of the chemical peel are how well you care for the skin afterward. Can You Do a Chemical Peel at Home? Yes, they are available but serve more as an exfoliating treatment versus a chemical peel based on the formulations. They might be called a “peel” but the result will be an exfoliation without generating significant cell turnover and no wound response. When dealing with any type of chemical peel ingredients, more is not always better; you could injure your skin. Deeper peels should always be used only under the direction of a trained professional. You have to be very careful with peel ingredients because there can be significant side effects which include infections, scarring, and hyper or hypopigmentation. Working with a trained professional is the best way to ensure the most optimal results. Receive a Chemical Peel by Skin Trust Click here to book a service with SkinTrust.

Squeezing Pores on Your Nose and Other Areas Clogged or enlarged pores are a big deal to most people. You can visibly see a change in your skin. Pore density is greatest in the classic “T -zone” of your forehead, nose, chin, and central face. Clogged pores can be enlarged pores, but not all enlarged pores are clogged. This blog is focusing on the clogged pores - the ones you love to squeeze. What Causes Clogged Pores? Clogged pores are very common and result from dead skin cells, oil, and dirt getting trapped in your pore. If the black stuff in your pore is a true blackhead it’s a hard plug of dead skin cells and oil that got stuck in the pore. Otherwise, dark material in a pore is just a collection of oil, dead cells, debris, and stuff that looks black but is not a hard blackhead - it’s just gunk! Pores are clogged when you notice whiteheads, blackheads, or dull skin. Environmental factors also contribute to clogged pores. Factors like air toxins or oil are transferred from your hand to your face. A buildup of dead skin cells, oil, or dirt can clog pores. Other causes include: Dry skin or skin that produces extra skin cells. Face products, like cleansers, lotions, or cosmetics. Medications that change how much oil your glands produce. Oily skin due to your age, hormones, or genetics. Some things that don’t directly cause clogged pores, but can make them worse, include: Clothing, backpacks, helmets, or other garments or equipment that rub against your skin Humid conditions Picking at pimples Pollution Stress and anxiety. (produces hormones) Washing or scrubbing your skin too hard - drying it out Oily versus dry skin - treatments Oil transferred to your face from your hands Most people notice clogged pores when they lead to one of the following skin concerns: Whiteheads: A clog in the opening of a pore can cause a raised white or flesh-colored bump on the skin. Another name for a whitehead is a closed comedone (closed pore). milia or pimple. Blackheads: A clog that widens the opening of the pore is a blackhead. Blackheads don’t look black because of dirt; it’s the chemical reaction of the pore’s content mixing with oxygen that makes them appear black. A very large blackhead is a dilated pore of Winer. It appears as an opening in your skin, filled with a blue or black substance. Pimples and pustules A lot of dirt and oil inside a pore can lead to redness, swelling, and irritation. Whiteheads and blackheads are types of pimples. Pimples are also called papules. If they contain pus, they’re pustules. Nodules and cysts A very clogged pore can cause swelling, pain, and irritation deep in the skin. If a nodule contains pus, it’s called a cyst. Cystic acne can lead to acne scars. How Are Clogged Pores and Dead Skin Cells Treated? The first step is regular cleansing - 2 times a day usually morning and night, and double cleanse at night. Use a cleanser that contains salicylic acid and a cleansing brush that gets the cleanser deeper into the pores. If you have dry or sensitive skin, you may want a gentler cleanser. For oily skin salicylic acid is key because it works to get the oil out. Glycolic acid and lactic acid can also work to drill down into the pores to release the gunk, especially for dry skin. If you have combination skin - normal of the cheeks, but oily in the t-zone, then use a cleanser for normal skin and toner for oily skin on the t-zone only and a charcoal or clay mask on the T-zone only. Use warm water to cleanse your skin. It’s much better than cold/cool water to pull out the oil. Tepid or cool water is better for complexions prone to redness and hot water is never a good choice. If you don’t have a sonic cleanser or cleansing brush add an exfoliating sponge with cleanser to the areas with clogged pores. This also drills the cleanser down more. You can also use a washcloth or massage with your fingers for 60 to 90 seconds. After cleansing, several times a week, use a clay or charcoal mask on the areas of clogged pores. This will help pull out the debris and oil. Be careful though, because clay can be drying and even with oily skin you do not want to dry it out too much. Some Additional Tips Only for Nose Pores and Other clogged pores: Use a toner to shrink your pores - one with witch hazel, glycolic acid, or botanicals that shrink pores Use salicylic pads that contain 2% salicylic acid or serum with the same concentration that stays in the skin Gently massage the area with clogged pores during cleansing Retinol is also an effective ingredient to keep pores clear. It can help reduce pore size while providing anti-aging benefits. Only use at night and good for oily or dry skin. With a retinol product be sure to transition your skin by using it a couple of times a week for several weeks before using it every day. Apply non-comedogenic face products. The term “non-comedogenic” means a product won’t clog pores. Look for cleansers, cosmetics, and moisturizers that say “non-comedogenic” or “oil-free” Use an oil-free moisturizer after cleansing to avoid dry skin Have a facial treatment to get extractions to gently release the “gunk” If you have clogged pores then just washing your skin won’t clear the pores and once you get them cleared you’ll need maintenance to keep them cleaned out. Many of the products/ingredients mentioned above can help with maintenance. A series of facials and/or chemical peels can be very beneficial too. What Are Sebaceous Filaments A sebaceous filament is a clogged pore, but not a blackhead. It is a tiny collection of sebum (oil) and dead skin cells around a hair follicle, which usually takes the form of a small, yellow to off-white hair-like stand when extracted. These filaments are naturally occurring and are especially prominent on the nose. They typically occur if you have oily skin and large pores even if you no longer have break-out-prone skin. They can also be part of a combination skin, T-zone oil, at any age. Commonly they are mistaken for blackheads. Squeezing the sebaceous filaments can lead to unintentional harm such as scarring or inflammation. Although they help to channel the flow of oil within a given pore, allowing it to come to the surface, ingredients like salicylic or glycolic acid help to keep them clean. Regular extractions from an esthetician also keep them clean and ultimately reduce the size of the pores. For Women Only If you need extractions the timing during your menstrual cycle can make a difference in the ease with which your pores can be cleared. For a typical 28-day cycle estrogen increases during days 1 to 7 keeping skin clear and extractions easier. During days 15-28 estrogen levels begin to decline and blemishes potentially increase, peaking in the days just before menstruation. In addition to this drop in estrogen, progesterone levels also increase and your follicles (along with tissue throughout your body) swell, causing pores to compress. Pores are ordinarily the smallest approximately one week before menstruation begins and easiest to extract on days 1 to 7. How to Prevent Clogged Pores You can help prevent clogged pores by sticking to a skin care regimen that’s right for your age, skin type, and skin concerns. An esthetician can recommend the right products and treatments. Other ways to prevent clogged pores include: Avoid touching your skin with unwashed hands. Don’t use oil on your face, such as coconut oil, olive oil, or jojoba oil. Exfoliate your skin with gentle scrubbing. Keep your skin clean and moisturized. Never pick at or pop pimples. Periodic facials or chemical peels Why You Don’t Want to Squeeze Your Pores! Damaging your skin by squeezing or picking can cause inflammation and discoloration. Squeezing introduces bacteria, oil, and dirt from your hands into your pores, which can lead to more blackheads. Aggressive pressure can also lead to scarring and excessive squeezing of your pores can stretch them out and make them permanently larger in the long run. Read these other blogs for more info, 13 Summer Skin Care Tips for Aging Beautifully and Have Your Nose Pores Gotten Larger!

Summer Skincare Tips You Need to Know Longer hours of daylight and hot, dry, or humid weather can affect our skin differently than the colder and darker days of winter. Summer is typically warmer and sunnier than winter and you are exposed to air conditioning. It’s only natural that your skin has different needs and your skincare routine should reflect that! For us here in Palos Heights and the surrounding areas, it means protecting our skin from sun, dehydration, dry weather, or air conditioning. Love your skin this summer and update your routine with these skin care tips. 1. Wear sunscreen every day year-round Sunscreen is commonly viewed as a product used to protect you from harmful UV rays that cause skin cancer. It's also an important aging beautifully tool. In the summer if you choose the right sunscreen it can actually be your daytime moisture. But selecting a sunscreen can be confusing. Here are some tips on selecting the right sunscreen for you. Make sure it is a broad spectrum - protects you from UVB (burning) & UVA (aging)rays. The sun protection factor (SPF) should be between 30 & 50. Remember no sunscreen gives you 100% protection. You might be surprised to see there is only a slight difference in protection between a 15 & 50 SPF - only 5% points. And as you go beyond 50 SPF, the protection is minimal. So what does the SPF really do? The SPF factor measures your protection against UVB, responsible for the burning effect of the sun. Broad Spectrum means it protects you from UVB and UVA, however only the PA rating lets you know how well you are protected from UVA, which is responsible for the aging effects of the sun. This is an important distinction because SPF measures only UVB protection while the PA rating only measures UVA protection. What is the PA in sunscreen - I told you it gets confusing… The PA grading system was established in Japan and is meant to inform users of the level of protection from UVA rays. Currently, only five countries utilize UVA testing: Japan, the United Kingdom, Germany, the United States, and Australia. The first thing you need to know is that PA is short for “Protection Grade of UVA.” P+ means your sunscreen or cosmetic provides some protection against UVA rays, PA++ provides moderate protection, and PA+++ offers the best protection of the three. Recent advancements have seen the introduction of PA++++ products in certain countries. However, the latter rating is rare, as this level of protection is found in few products. An easy guide when shopping for sunscreens and cosmetics that utilize the PA+++ rating: the more plus signs on your product, the better. Sunscreen Application When it comes to sunscreen application, apply at least 20 minutes before heading outside and reapply every 90 minutes —more often if you plan on swimming or you’re doing a strenuous workout. This is the part that is tricky for people. A great product that helps is a dry sunscreen that can be applied right over your makeup. Jane Iredale Powder-Me-SPF is great. A lot of clients use makeup that has sunscreen in it. That’s fine, but you don’t use makeup on your neck or decollete. In the summer, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen under your makeup, and be sure to cover your neck & decollete with it. Also, don’t forget about protecting your lip and another great Jane Iredale product is their Lip Drink that conditions lips with a 15 SPF. Sunscreens today are very sophisticated and offer more than sun protection. They moisturize, have anti-aging and anti-oxidant ingredients as they protect from the sun and the environment. If you are concerned about blue light some sunscreens provide that protection. This is great if you spend considerable time on the computer. 2. Punch up your antioxidants inside & outside Antioxidant is a word you hear a lot in the wellness world, and skin care. Antioxidants are a group of naturally occurring compounds that protect your cells from damage. Your body makes antioxidants and you add more with foods or supplements. Another layer of protection comes with antioxidants used in your skin care routine. Their role is to protect your skin from exposure to excessive sun, pollution, radiation, and cigarette smoke. Antioxidants reduce the free radical damage caused by these exposures. If not protected, free radical damage causes inflammation and prematurely aging skin. Common antioxidants in skin care include: antioxidants Vitamin C Vitamin E Green, white, Cada Oil Coenzyme Q10 Niacinamide Resveratrol Curcumin Avocado Oil Ginger Root Essential Oil Many sunscreens have antioxidants in them. Then you are all set. If not, look for a product that contains several of them for extra protection. They must be absorbed by the skin for them to do any good. How well they are absorbed depends largely on how the skin care product is formulated. Remember there is a difference between over-the-counter and medical-grade products. A medical-grade will have a higher concentration of the active ingredients and will penetrate the skin. To get the full benefit of your skin care product it is important to be consistent with your skin care routine. Antioxidants and sunscreens are musts for your daytime regimen. Remember to protect your skin during the day and treat your skin at night. Research continues to find even more effective antioxidant ingredients for skincare products. And to get the full effect of antioxidants it’s important to eat fruits and vegetables so you have a program that works on the inside as well as the outside. Here are some of the most powerful antioxidants foods: Blueberries Strawberries Artichokes Goji Berries Raspberries Kale Pecans Dark Chocolate Red cabbage Beets Spinach Broccoli Red beans or kidney beans Blackberries Prunes Apples Sweet Potatoes Dark leafy vegetables Avocados Applying antioxidants topically is not enough. To maintain radiant skin, you need to nourish it accordingly. Consume lots of fruits and vegetables. They contain essential vitamins, nutrients, and antioxidants that boost collagen production, reduce inflammation, and protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun. Eating a wide variety of foods rich in antioxidants can boost your blood levels of antioxidants. Combined with your topical antioxidants you will have significant protection. 3. Keep moisturizing Even though you don’t need a heavy moisturizer in the summer as you do in the winter, it is still important to maintain moisture in your skin. Air conditioning and dry days can drain lots of moisture out of your skin leaving it skin lackluster and dull. Using a hydrating serum under your moisturizer or sunscreen can help - one that contains hyaluronic acid or a hydrating mist to spray over your moisturizer or makeup throughout the day to replenish your skin. That will keep your glow. 4. Exfoliate once or twice a week Sunscreen and sweat both can do a number on your pores. Exfoliating helps unclog pores and reduce blemishes. It removes the debris from sweat, sunscreen, and oil. But don’t overdo it. Once to twice a week and never on sunburned skin. 5. Self-tan for a healthy glow Tanned skin can be beautiful. I have several clients recently who came in with a beautiful color. But tanned, not sun burnt skin is still sun-damaged. And sun damage leads to premature aging and in some cases skin health issues like skin cancer. If you want that beautiful color, consider a good self-tanner. 6. Wash your face — but not constantly When it’s hot, you may feel the need to wash your face more but don’t. Too much cleansing can cause dehydration, just as hot showers can too. Or it can cause your oil glands to overwork. Stick to cleansing your skin only morning and night, plus shower only once a day. If you work out, cleanse directly afterward but don’t add an additional cleanse. For excessive oil or sweating consider blotting your skin with specific facial blotting papers. Facial Cleansers If that’s not enough consider changing your face wash. Your face tends to produce more oil during this time, so you may need to change your cleanser accordingly. For oily skin, you may want to switch to a cleanser with salicylic acid to keep pores clean. If you have dry skin and experience redness or rashes, use a creamy cleanser. Or consider a good toner that keeps your skin oil-free and clean. It also reduces the appearance of pores. When applying toner, pay attention to your T-zone as it is the part of your face that secretes the maximum oil during summer. 7. Keep Yourself Hydrated Drink plenty of water and don’t forget to carry a water bottle with you wherever you go. Keep sipping from your bottle. This is important to keep your skin hydrated, flush out toxins from your body, and feel refreshed during the hot summer days. 8. Do Not Forget Your Feet Your skin does not end at your neck. Most of us tend to forget our feet. Now that you have replaced your winter boots with summer sandals, you need to take care of your feet as well. Give yourself a pedicure at home to add to your summer skincare routine. Use a scrub to remove the dead and dry skin cells. Moisturize your feet, and don’t forget to apply sunscreen lotion on them. 9. Don’t stop exercising Exercise is equally important for maintaining healthy skin during summer. Physical activity improves blood flow, which means your skin cells get more oxygen. Thus, your body heals any tissue damage (like a sunburn or acne) easily. Any form of exercise is good for your health but especially important to your summer skincare routine. 10. Don’t Cut Down Your Resting Time Your body needs time to repair itself and maintain healthy skin. That’s why no matter what schedule you maintain, try to take out enough time to rest. This is crucial because, during the summer months, the days are longer, and most of us tend to be more active. 11. Do Not Forget The Eye Area The area around your eyes is more delicate than the rest of your face and needs special care. Whenever you are stepping out in the sun, do not forget to wear sunglasses. And if you want extra protection, consider an eye cream that has an SPF for daytime use. This will prevent the formation of wrinkles around your eyes. Don’t forget to apply a moisturizing eye cream both during the day and at night. Massage the area around your eyes every night to relax the muscles. 12. Cool Off With A Face Mask A cool face mask works wonders on a hot and humid summer day. It helps in soothing sunburns and inflammation and makes your skin look fresh and dewy. Apply the mask after you exfoliate your skin. And if you use an eye gel put it in the refrigerator and apply cold. While refreshing for summer, it reduces under-eye puffiness too. 13. Use multiple protection methods For most of us, the best protection for summer skincare comes through a combination of methods. Wear sunscreen, and don layers of clothing to keep your skin protected from the sun’s rays. Also, remember: wide-brimmed hats UV-400 sunglasses dark-colored clothes with woven fabrics or UV absorbers Summer Skin Care Routine Tips Conclusion Summer is a wonderful time for outdoor fun. As I tell my clients, we have two seasons - summer and winter, each requiring different skin care tweaks. These summer skin care tips should guide you through the summer with healthy glowing skin.

Reasons to Get A Facial This is a question I get a lot and although everyone's skin and skin goals are different, there are some general guidelines. When I was in esthetic school they taught us that once a month was the ideal frequency for getting a facial. The skin cells come up through the epidermis and slough off approximately every 30 days so a facial keeps the cell nourished and hydrated. That’s one perspective. I also believe you need to consider what you are using at home to care for their skin each day. If they have a good regimen, then you may not need monthly facials. Aging, Acne-Prone Skin, and Other Conditions If you are treating a specific condition you may get facial treatments more frequently for a specific period of time. If you have a medical condition you may be on meds that require you to get more frequent treatments too because of their impact on your skin. Then there is the age issue. As we age our skin changes. Many of those changes are based on hormonal shifts and then are accelerated by lifestyle choices. Here are some guidelines based on age: In your 20’s facials 3 to 4 times a year In your 30’s & 40’s facials every other month 50+ facials each month - your skin is experiencing the most changes Basically, get facial treatments when it makes sense for your skin. Minimally get a facial to transition your skin through the seasons. In Palos Heights, we have two seasons - summer and winter. Cleaning up one season and preparing your skin for the next is a healthy way to care for your skin.

Dermal Filler Fatigue Causes and Ways To Avoid I have worked in the skincare world, or the esthetics industry, for over 12 years and have seen many changes. Most of these changes are improvements in products and natural-looking treatments. As a 67-year-old, who is a strong believer in aging beautifully on my own terms, I believe the best approach for beautiful skin is to be conservative with injections, implement a hybrid approach, and maintain the quality of your skin. By that I mean, use fillers & Botox, but also alternate with treatments that will produce collagen & elastin, not just fill, and always use products that will do the same while maintaining skin quality. Using this approach you can have nonsurgical results and help you to avoid filler fatigue. What are Dermal Facial Fillers? Dermal Facial fillers started to be used in the 1980s. That gives us roughly 30 years of experience with the FDA-approved fillers. These fillers can be made from silicone (not used today) hyaluronic acid, bovine collagen, or calcium hydroxyapatite. Dermal fillers are synthetic or naturally derived products that are injected into the skin’s dermis to enhance the correction of wrinkles, depressions, and folds. However, with the manufacturing of new types, the indications of dermal fillers are increasingly rising to include tissue contouring and replacement of any lost volume in the skin or subcutaneous fat. However, If you have significant fat loss, fillers are not your best option. Dermal Filler History In the late 1800s, shortly after the invention of the syringe, chemical agents were used for facial augmentation. These filler injections were in an attempt to maintain a youthful, natural-looking appearance or to reconstruct facial deformities. History has taught us that new technologies must be used with care, because complications can occur, sometimes many months after initial treatment. The first injectable filling agent was paraffin, whose use was abandoned after significant complications. More recently, silicone use was banned by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) because of complications. In 1981, bovine collagen was the first agent to be approved by the FDA for cosmetic injection. Since its approval, dozens of injectable filling agents have been developed, and many are already FDA-approved for cosmetic use. Why do you use Dermal Fillers? The use of dermal fillers to draw a new look is a matter of art that requires artistic eyes and well-trained hands in aesthetic and cosmetic treatments. This is because the procedure requires an understanding of each patients facial anatomy. When considering a filler your injector will or should always take into account the so-called “triangle of youth”: the face of a young person is shaped like a triangle with the base across the forehead and the apex pointing downwards. With age, the triangle is inverted and the base moves to the lower part of the face: the face becomes wider and less oval. Consequently, adding volume to the lower third of the face should be done conservatively and cautiously. Facial fillers are used to add volume - replace volume loss and lift - when you fill your skin lifts up, and your cheeks go higher. There are Hyaluronic Acid Fillers, the most popular, which fill and may slightly stimulate collagen & elastin. Hyaluronic Acid Fillers Over the past two decades, the popularity of nonsurgical cosmetic procedures has increased exponentially. According to recent statistics, more than 85% of all dermal filler procedures occurred with a hyaluronic acid derivative. These numbers are expected to rise in the future as there is currently no other class of filling agent that rivals the popularity of hyaluronic acid. The popularity specifically stems from its effectiveness, ease of administration, and safety profile. Brands for Filler Treatments Brands of these include Juvederm, Restylane, Voluma, and Belotero. Within these brands, they have specific fillers for areas such as the lips, nasal folds, and cheeks. Then there are fillers such as Bellafill or Sculptra that do stimulate collagen & elastin. Botox is not a filler. It works on stabilizing muscles to smooth fine lines and never lasts as long as a filler. Care After Getting a Filler and How Long Does It Take to Get Back Depending on the facial area treated with the dermal filler, if lumps are present simply massage them several times a day. After two weeks or so, they will become smooth. Minimize exercise after getting a filler treatment for 48 hours. This is to keep your metabolism stable to not absorb the filler too quickly which can minimize results. This doesn’t happen to everyone but it can happen. Sleep on your back the first few nights after the filler injections to minimize movement of the filler. Fillers will have no impact on your skincare regimen so return to it without concern. Can You Get Filler Fatigue? Nowadays, the use of filler injections for correcting signs of aging, such as wrinkles, depressions, and folds, has become increasingly popular. However, filler fatigue can be caused in two ways. One is using too much filler at one time or one injection session. The second is to use fillers consistently over a longer period of time and over that period of time using too much filler. In extreme cases, the overuse of fillers can lead to disfigurements and unpredictable consequences among users. Over Filling at One Time Can Create: Puffy face - swollen face with edema that appears sometime after the injection Swollen lips a month or so after the injection Bags and redness under your eyes People who want more at the time of injections don’t realize that more is usually not appropriate, does not look natural, and can have significant negative side effects. Well-trained injectors understand how much to inject at one time. Being conservative with injections leads to a natural safe appearance. The other way to get filler fatigue is to get an additional injection too soon. Repeatedly filling your skin over time will create a heaviness to your skin - the opposite result you are trying to achieve. Remember from above the triangular look of your face as you age and continually filling will accelerate that look. Filler Warnings Even when the fillers used are temporary in nature, they should be used with caution because it has been observed that, in the long-term, excessive treatment or “filler fatigue” can give rise to an inharmonious appearance. Filler fatigue is caused by a decrease in skin elasticity, fibrosis, and the creation of an unnaturally wide face. All of these changes can occur not only because of excessive use of collagen-inducing fillers such as calcium hydroxyapatite but also owing to the overuse of hyaluronic acid. Fillers are a useful tool provided they are used in moderation and applied by someone who has a great deal of experience. How Long Should I Go In Between Dermal Fillers? Hyaluronic Acid fillers last from 12 to 24 months. A touch-up at 12 months may be recommended to extend the initial results. Filler Alternatives Aging and lifestyles can take away our collagen and elastin causing wrinkles and facial volume loss. Fillers are an alternative to help improve your appearance. But in order to get the fill benefit without the potential side effects, it is best to also invest in procedures that stimulate your collagen and elastin or lift your skin. These can include threads, micro-needling, chemical peels, retinal treatments, and PRP injections among others. Plus you should always focus on your skin’s quality. Micro-Needling - Also Known as Collagen Induction Therapy Medical micro-needling is one of the best treatments to improve your collagen and elastin. And it’s natural. Using a device that makes tiny needles penetrate the epidermis down to the dermis stimulates your system to regenerate collagen & elastin. Platelet Rich Plasma - PRP A series of PRP injections can smooth wrinkles, tighten skin and reduce the rate of aging by restoring the declining DNA synthesis that occurs with aging. Studies have shown that PRP injections improved skin conditions, including increased skin thickness, enhanced collagen content, and reduced pigmentation. Retinol Treatments These treatments increase collagen and elastin through fibroblast stimulation. Chemical peels Chemical peels do two things: They keep your skin in great shape by slowing down the aging process through the stimulation of hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin and they treat specific skincare conditions like acne, rosacea, and pigmentation or dark spots. Thread Lift Various types of threads tighten and firm skin and are used to reposition loose or sagging tissue. Also, they can increase skin density and have collagen-inducing properties. Threading is primarily used on the cheeks, jawline, neck, and eyebrows. Some threads nicely improve wrinkles under the eyes. Results from threads can last 9 to 12 months. Tips For You Personally, I do a series of micro-needling/PRP treatments or threads each year to stimulate collagen & elastin, Throughout the year I do other skin treatments such as retinol treatments or SWICH to stimulate collagen or stimulate my cells to work better. And I add micro-current when I can to stimulate my muscles to stay lifted. Plus I use effective products morning and night. For best results, together with treatments, you have to use good products each day. Why You Should Use A Dermal Filler With Other Treatments If you are over 50 and have not tried to stimulate collagen & elastin, then repeated fillers could be an issue. Your skin is not conditioned to “bounce back”. However, if you do get a filler, then try a treatment such as micro-needling or threads while using skincare products that stimulate collagen & elastin. Or start with a treatment, evaluate the results, and then consider a filler. The goal is to get as close to natural-looking as possible. Ultimately the result you want from injectables, treatments, and effective skincare products is for someone to say “you look great” and not know why. Be conservative with your approach and continue to slow down the aging by rebuilding what aging is taking away with effective products & treatments. Then, you will age beautifully, on your terms!

Is Dermplaning Good For You? If you have a dull complexion and want a smoother look dermaplaning is the treatment for you. Dermaplaning is a method of a mechanical exfoliation using a # 10 scalpel or blade to gently abrade dead surface cells and vellus hair (peach fuzz) using light feather strokes. It has been used for years by estheticians as a mechanical exfoliation; microdermabrasion is also a mechanical exfoliation. Both are performed very differently. Dermaplaning might sound scary but it really isn’t. It reveals a smoother, brighter complexion. It is one of the favorite treatments in the entertainment world because it eliminates the annoying peach fuzz creating a flawless canvas for makeup to glide on smoothly. And it is the number one treatment at SkinTrust. Other Treatments for Improving Skin Cells When people hear the word “dermaplaning” they quickly associated it with dermabrasion, which is a very different treatment. Dermabrasion abrades the skin down to the dermis, thus opening up your skin. Only a dermatologist can perform this treatment because as a medical procedure that abrades down to the dermis you can have complications including infections and scares. Dermaplaning is simple but effectively shaves the epidermis without significant complications. Older Women and Dealing with Peach Fuzz Many women may wax their faces to remove the fine hairs but this is prone to many problems. The hair is so fine that gentle facial waxes may not pick it all up. A mature women’s skin may be more susceptible to burning and tearing, therefore dermaplaning is a wonderful alternative with many more benefits. This treatment improves the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and acne scarring. Skincare products are more effective because they are not blocked by the buildup of dead skin cells or oil/dirt in the follicle. And the best result is it makes skin younger. It triggers increased cell turnover and the cellular repair process that makes skin behave younger. Will My Hair Grow Back Thicker? Although merely an old wive’s tale, you may be concerned that your hair will grow back thicker or darker. This is not the case. As long as the hair is superficial vellus hair (peach fuzz), it will grow back at the same rate, texture, and color as before the treatment. I have extensive personal experience because I have this done regularly to my skin as well as the number of clients over the years I have treated. Benefits of a Dermaplaning Treatment In addition to exfoliating your skin, dermaplaning can: Allow for better product penetration more readily into the deeper layers of the epidermis. This will soften fine lines Dermatologists use this treatment to prep the skin for a peel so the peel can penetrate deeper Safe for pregnancy & nursing clients because it exfoliates your skin without any chemicals transferring to the fetus or child If you have excessive villus hair this can cause a buildup of dirt & oil in the follicles so removing the hair gives you healthier skin Dermaplaning is most often used on clients with rough, dry skin, superficial hyperpigmentation, mild acne scarring, or fine lines & wrinkles. The treatment results in a more refined smooth “glowing” appearance Many women may wax their faces to remove the fine hairs but this is prone to many problems. The hair is so fine that gentle facial waxes may not pick it all up. A mature women’s skin may be more susceptible to burning and tearing with waxing therefore dermaplaning is a wonderful alternative Types of Dermaplaning Treatments Dermaplaning is an exfoliating method in skincare treatments. You can have your skin cleansed, dermaplaned, and end with finishing products. But usually, a dermplaning treatment includes a light exfoliating mask, then a hydrating mask, completed with finishing products. This allows your skin to get the maximum benefit of dermaplaning. At SkinTrust, we customized the exfoliating mask, the finishing mask, and products to your skin. Or you can simply add dermaplaning to your favorite facial. Cons of Dermaplaning Although unlikely, there is a chance of a small scrape or nick in the skin. It is best to remain quiet during the dermaplaning treatment. If you are on blood thinners or have uncontrolled diabetes you should not have this dermaplaning treatment. If you are allergic to nickel, do not have a dermplaning treatment. After the treatment, your skin will be more sensitive to the sun. Sunscreen must be worn for at least two weeks following this treatment. A dermaplaning treatment should not be done on inflamed acne or if you have raised lesions on your face. SkinTrust Dermaplaning Options The cost of a dermaplaning treatment will vary by business or practice. At SkinTrust, we offer the Dermaplaning Treatment for $95 or a Dermaplaning Facial (which includes a massage that is excellent for circulation and additional brightness) for $115. You can also add dermplaning to your favorite facial for $25. This is the number one treatment at SkinTrust so we have considerable experience. There is no downtime or side effects associated with this treatment and you can have this done every two weeks. Dermaplaning removes 21 days of dead skin cells so it is best to complete the rejuvenation cycle before your next treatment. Most people wait until their hair grows back which is usually 30 to 45 days.

Benefits of Oxygen Facials Last month I posted Oxygen Treatments as a trend for this year - and it is. But why is it important and are all treatments the same? Your skin relies on oxygen just as your body does. The dermis, or the deeper layers of the skin, get oxygen from your capillaries and veins. The top layers of your skin depend on the environment. Signs that you are not getting enough can include dullness, aging pigment or discoloration, fine lines and wrinkles, thinning skin, and sensitivity. Factors that limit oxygen intake include: Environment, overall health, and elevation. For healthy skin function, oxygen is necessary. How Oxygen Facial Helps Aging Skin Cells Oxygen treatments fight against aging skin and age-related pigmentation. Also, for acne-prone skin, they are anti-bacterial and effective in healing and controlling breakouts. What is important to understand is what the treatment is really doing? Does it stimulate and bring oxygen to the skin or does it use oxygen to infuse ingredients into the skin? At SkinTrust, we have both because they each serve different purposes in maintaining healthy skin. Oxygen Facial Offer The treatment we are featuring this month - Circadia Oxy Facial, stimulates oxygen and provides all the benefits in a controlled way. It uses magnesium peroxide to do this. This treatment is extremely nourishing & beneficial for all skin types, even sensitive skin. It lightens & brightens, provides essential nutrients, and can also reduce the appearance of rosacea or redness in your skin. And it is excellent to eliminate the bacteria associated with acne. A controlled amount of oxygen is generated on the skin to provide maximum benefits. The exfoliation and mask are customized to your skin type. Be careful of treatments that use hydrogen peroxide because that can cause oxidative stress which increases free radical damage leading to premature aging. If your skin is healthy an occasional Oxy Facial will keep it in great shape. If you have breakout or acne-prone skin, a series of Oxy Facials really help heal and prevent further breakouts.

Barrier Repair Much more info is out on understanding how the barrier layer (the most outer layer of your skin) if damaged, can contribute to almost every skin concern. Anyone’s barrier can be compromised especially this time of year. The heat and then cold irritate this layer if not protected. And if you want the full benefits of more aggressive skin care treatments, you need a heathy barrier layer. Cerimides are getting much more press in skin care and specifically for barrier repair. Cerimides are one of the most protective additive ingredients in skin care. They help strengthen the skin’s natural moisture barrier and defend against daily and long-term aggressors. Unfortunately, we begin to lose Cerimides in our 20s and need to add them through moisturizers that contain them. It is thought that Cerimides after sunscreen are the # 2 anti-aging ingredient. Reusable Skin Care Accessories Supporting sustainable products is important and how about a cotton round that you can reuse? Look for the skin care accessories such as cotton rounds, reusable face & eye masks that are kinder to our environment. We have the Jane Iredale Magic Mitt, a reusable that removes your makeup and is pure magic! Mask Solutions It doesn’t look like masks are going away any time soon. If you need to wear one for a prolonged period of time consider adding a barrier to your skin to minimize breakouts. Use a moisturizing spray that contains natural salicylic acid (we have the Circadia White WIllow Mist) followed by a moisturizer. And if you have more breakout prone skin the PCA Pore Minimizer product acts as a primer to protect your skin and control breakout. Oxygen Treatments Oxygen is not just for our lungs! The outer layer of your skin needs it as well. Low levels of oxygen in your skin present as dull appearance, thinning skin, wrinkle formulation, barrier layer problems, and inability to fight free radicals. Slow loss of oxygen results in compromised skin health. This issue has been studied for years and there are services and products now available to help your skin get more oxygen. Be careful and make sure they will give you the desired results. At SkinTrust we have treatments that address oxygen loss with proven results.

At SkinTrust safety continues to be a top priority. With this new Covid challenge I want to assure clients that I am maintaining a safe, welcoming environment. Here are the steps I am taking to achieve this: I am fully vaccinated and boosted. I take a Covid test weekly, when available. During your visit and treatment, I always wear a mask. An air purifier is in the treatment room directly next to the head of the treatment table. The area is fully sanitized after each client visit. Clients are scheduled with time in-between appointments to insure you have contact with only me. This has been a long journey for all of us and please know I appreciate your support and am grateful I can continue to provide you with relaxing & effective skin care.

Are they right for you? Face masks used in skin care have been around for ages. They are used in facials and for home care. Now the focus is on overnight face masks to boost absorptions of concentrated ingredients while the skin regenerates. A face mask is just like a serum - it is a vehicle that delivers highly concentrated active ingredients, vitamins, and nutrients to the skin to improve its overall health. They create a physical barrier that locks in beneficial ingredients allowing the skin to absorb more efficiently. Designed to use intermittently, they give your skin an instant boost. New Trend - Overnight Masks Benefits of overnight masks are compelling, especially to maintain beautiful skin as we age: Ingredients have longer to absorb into the skin - they seep into the skin all night, which intensely hydrates the skin and replaces the moisture we lose as we age. Also smooths wrinkles. Studies show that cells replicate and renew overnight, and a face mask helps these cells do this effectively. Overnight masks contain skin boosting vitamins and other ingredients that deep penetrate giving skin radiance and can calm and sooth. Tips for using an overnight mask: Apply to clean dry skin Wash off thoroughly in the morning, unless it has fully absorbed into your skin Use once a week or when your skin needs a boost

As discussed in Part 2, to get the Ultimate Compliment you need healthy skin with a radiant, well moisturized look. The only way to achieve this is using effective skin care products in a regular regimen. Then is makes sense to get Botox or fillers. Remember Botox or fillers without an effective skin care program will not give you the look you want. Fillers, Botox and other advance treatments work under the skin and provide great results. Fillers fill your face and bring back its contour. Botox paralyzes the muscles and stops or softens fine lines. Advanced treatments like micro-needling and threads stimulate your collagen and elastin. I highly recommend doing advance treatments in-between fillers, meaning you don’t use fillers as frequently, to stimulate your own body to preserve and create collagen and elastin - it will slow down the aging process. Just filling your skin could create filler fatigue (see our blog on filler fatigue), which over years will not be a good look. With all injectables use them conservatively - no one wants the frozen look, and you can always get more. And use medical grade products with proven results and ingredients targeting your concerns. What women want is the Ultimate Compliment - “You look good” and no one knows why!

Last month we blogged on the Ultimate Compliment - “You look great!” but no one knows why. It’s the best compliment you can get. And I believe there are four major strategies that can get you the ultimate compliment. The first strategy is use good skin care products every day both morning and night. Having a good skin care regimen that you religiously follow is so important. If you don’t care for your skin every day everything else including makeup, injectables, etc. will never look the best they can. And remember that not caring for your skin at night – in particular taking off your makeup, can cause premature aging. A basic rule of good skin is to protect your skin in the day. Minimally wear sun screen all year long and during the cold months protect your skin with a good moisturizer under your sunscreen. At night treat your skin. Use treatment products on a clean face. That’s when your body is doing the restorative & repair work. The magic beauty hours are between 10 pm & 2 am so be sure to get good sleep, especially during those hours. Using good skin care products is essential - ones with a high concentration of good ingredients. Unfortunately, most over the counter skin care products use inferior ingredients with low concentrations. I know medical grade products are more expensive, but you can have a skin care program put together that includes some over the counter products and some medical grade ones. There are many ways to structure a good skin care program that gives you the results you want. We can help you do that at SkinTrust.